Sunday, April 27, 2008

The Cruise - Part 11

The Cruise – Part 11

Thursday 24th April

Unexpectedly I was invited to spend last night with my brother and his wife at their home in Sydling St. Nicholas, and what a change it was to sleep on a bed that didn't move! When I woke this morning and looked at the clouds rushing across the sky I was grateful not be at sea. There had been a band of heavy rain which had passed to reveal a beautiful spring morning - just right for a health-giving walk along country lanes where the blossoming trees proclaimed, “This is Spring at last.” In a fast flowing brook of clear water a trout darted from the cover of waving emerald weeds to hide under a stone until we had passed. Two male mallards clothed with pristine feathers of iridescent rainbow hues accompanied a dowdy mottled brown female swimming with the current to evade us until they conceived the danger was too great causing them to take to flight. Robins, wrens, blackbirds and crows spoke to one another of their territories in tuneful note, but with serious intent.

Back at my brother's home we had coffee in the warmth of the conservatory overlooking gorgeous rolling hills, characteristic of this part of Dorset. The flint built cottages with thatched roofs blend so naturally into their rural setting of farmsteads where cattle and sheep graze in leaf-fringed paddocks. It's and area of great wealth where only the privileged either by money or inheritance can live – a bastion of political and historical conservatism – the homeland of Thomas Hardy who invented Wessex for the settings of his scandalous and often sad novels.

Back at 'Faith' in the afternoon there were a succession of visitor who were interested in the little boat that by all accounts had sailed around the world! Some maintained she had circumnavigated Great Britain, but I countered these wild stories by maintaining she had sailed around the moon. Several visitors even took photos of me and the boat – fame at last. One local sailor when I told him of my problem with the outboard took me to Bussells Chandlery in Hope Street, because he said his friend Bill the owner would be able to sort out what was wrong. He was so bored he left his shop to diagnose the fault which turned out to me! I was not pulling the starting cord in the right way – that's first to find a compression load, then smartly pull the cord.

Friday 25th April

To take advantage of the tide and not be sucked into the Portland Race the best time for rounding the southern most tip of the savage peninsular is 4 hours after high water at Portland itself – that's when sailing from east to west. By adjusting the the speed of the boat we arrived at the crucial location exactly on time, i.e., 1400. The current was still running south against the wind which caused steep, but short waves and one of them knocked the outboard so that it was no longer low enough to provide full thrust which made getting out of the rough water to the west where there was almost flat water an anxious period.

The southerly breeze of force 2 or 3 was almost ideal for a course of 278 degrees true and within an hour we were nearly 6 miles from the Portland's hazards. Sailing south along the eastern side of the peninsular can be quite daunting; not only does the functional stone structure of the enormous ex naval harbour cause one to shudder, but the rocky and boulder strewn shore with the remains of a wrecked motor launch speaks terror. The nerves quiver as the speed of the tide increases while to seaward the race can clearly be seen. It's always a relief to be well clear of the notorious hazard.

An hour later the white lighthouse was barely visible astern through the gloomy haze, and there below it a tiny speck of tan brown which was the mainsail of 'Patsy Rye'. She had made it safely too.

The 33 mile passage across Lyme Bay was almost uneventful. The Portland firing range was not being used and apart from Nigel's lovely gaff cutter I only saw one other vessel, a fishing boat of some sort. Never had I crossed the Bay so quickly before, as on this occasion I used the engine to boost the speed which meant we arrived at the East Exe Bell Buoy about 2130. The navigation into the River Exe was made relatively easy by using the Lowrance GPS; nevertheless the adrenaline ran high because some of the buoys are unlit and the last long stretch is sailed on a bearing to white flashing lights at the entrance to the Marina. On the port hand there are sand banks, but it was high water and by the time I entered the Marina under the open drawbridge there was little movement of water.

Nigel was there to take my lines and help secure my treasure.

Saturday 26th April

What a lovely surprise there was for me shortly after I had eaten breakfast, for there was Al Law who had come to spend the day with me. We reminisced and explored parts of Exmouth by foot, including a coffee cafe and an ice cream vendor. I asked a young couple if there was a MacDonald's and they replied it was a couple of miles out of town on the Budleigh Salterton Road which was for my informants far too far to walk. My question was of little use because the battery of my laptop computer was low and by the time Ii was fully charged it was too late to visit MacDonald's.

I had a second free night at Exmouth Marina by courtesy of the Harbour Master.

Sunday 27th April

At 0700 I took the opportunity to motor the boat to a waiting pontoon on the Warren side of the River Exe. There was very little wind and it was peaceful as the birds made their early morning calls; I heard skylarks, crows and a pheasant!

By 1045 'Faith' was rounding Warren Point over Pole Sand in a depth of 10 feet. A light wind was from dead ahead; to starboard there were a few people walking along the beautiful golden sandy beach of The Warren and ahead lay the pretty seaside town of Dawlish with a road rising gradually up the hillside and colourful buildings in hues of white, yellow, blue and pink.

I motor-sailed the boat inshore, then tacked offshore before making a direct course towards Hope's Nose in the distance around which we needed to go before entering Torbay. As we sailed between the rocky Ore Stone and the headland of Hope's Nose the wind piped up and I shortened sail. To port a jaunty trawler was a work and ahead a large yacht was beating towards Berry Head. I deliberately headed westwards in the diretion of Paignton to avoid being adversely affected by the ebbing tide. The wind almost faded away when I changed course for Brixham. A group of people in an inflatable boat were trying to kite-sail a board. They were learners and there really wasn't enough wind to keep them moving fast enough.

'Faith' arrived at the pontoon of the Brixham Yacht Club at 1615 and I was greeted by Lee, the Bosun of the Club, who kindly let me have his rubber dinghy, to be returned early on Monday morning when he starts work. He also gave me the WEP code for the Club's WIFI.

What will tomorrow bring? – maybe a sail to Dartmouth.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

The Cruise - Part 10

'Sunday 19th April

The inshore forecast for Wight was North East 4 or 5, increasing 6 at times, particularly around headlands. With that knowledge I set off from Lymington at 0950 with the engine running, but just as 'Faith' left the inner harbour the engine failed, and it seemed like a case of petrol starvation. With no time to lose before the Yarmouth bound ferry would put to sea I made sail and could hold the wind until clear of the shallow water to leeward. When the depth sounder showed 20 feet I set a course for Hurst Point - just under two-and-a-half miles away. The flooding tide was against us, but our speed over the ground was a good two knots. Through the haze I could make out the white lighthouse and the gaunt concrete and metal structure of Hurst Cast;e which was a fortification commanding the western entrance to the Solent during the war. To the East I could hear the guns for the competitive racing yachts of the Royal Lymington Yacht Club.

To the South West of Lymington Spit I observed a peculiar vessel anchored in shallow water and as my course lay along that path I discovered she was the race officer's boat for the Lymington Town Sailing Club.

We arrived too early at Hurst Point as the flood tide was still making against the wind, but 'Faith' was able to maintain just over a knot. By keeping very close inshore we could keep clear of the race to our port. It was exciting sailing, as I had to steer accurately to make sure the the boat did not involuntary gybe. The North Head green starboard hand buoy, distant about a mile-and-a-half, was our objective; once there we would be clear of the infamous shallows known as the Shingles over which the water pours resulting in dangerous overflows. This has been the grave of many unwary sailors.

While making to the West we were overtaken by several very fast RIBS; I assumed their crews were just enjoying the fun of speeding over the tumbling waves, and what for them was playful enjoyment could have been hazardous for the crew of 'Faith'. The well-known silhouette of the white cliffs of the Needles and its lighthouse could be seen through the yellow haze to the South. Soon we would escape the clutches of the Solent that entraps sailors like the sirens of Odysseus. The wind increased as we headed for Christchurch Bay beyond Milford on Sea where I had been entertained by cousin and her husband three days earlier. It was good to be sailing again after being stuck in port because of the excepionally windy weather.

While en route for Poole Harbour I frequently fortified myself by snacking on Cadbury Dairy Milk Whole Nut Chocolate, Brazil nuts and dried fruit. When Hingistbuty Head that marks the entrance to Christchurch Harbour lay abeam to starboard I felt we were on our way. The objective was to find Poole Bar Fairway Buoy No 1 to the North East of the white cliffs of Handfast Point. The nearer we approached the Buoy the bigger became the swell and waves as they rolled over the shallows. By the time we were passing through the narrows of Poole Harbour's entrance the tide was rushing out which meant our speed was reduced to just one knot which did not help when it came to avoiding the chain ferry. Beyond that hazard the wind almost failed which caused 'Faith' to sail backwards and not wishing to be swept to the open sea I tried the engine, but to no avail. Instead I was forced to change course for the South Deep Channel to the west where there would be less current.

In actual fact it was a fortuitous choice, because the sail along the winding channel to Goathorn Point where I anchored was delightful because of its beauty; wooded Brownsea Island lay to tne North, the smaller Furzey Island to the North West and the tiny Green Island to the West. Furzey Island was somewhat scarred by the derrick of an oil well and because of that exploitation the island is visited frequently by various craft to supply it with necessary goods. An extraordinary powered raft-like structure with a high bridge deck on a platform is used for transporting heavy vehicles.

The anchorage was at first peaceful, but when nightfall came the wind increased and it became uncomfortable. I observed a white egret patiently fishing at the water's edge.

Monday 21st April

After a not too pleasant night when 'Faith' was tossed and rolled by the waves I awoke to hear yet again another dreadful weather forecast. I snuggled into the sleeping bag with a resolve not to surface until after 0800 when I would have a leisurely breakfast. Throughout the morning there was a grey blanket of cloud which produced constant rain or drizzle. This did not stop the oyster fishermen doing their work, nor the frequent vessels visiting Furzey Island, or the bright yellow tripper boat named 'Maid of Lakeland' from doing her usual round of the passages between the Islands.

Poole is certainly a major ferry port, because during the afternoon an enormous passenger catamaran resembling the shape of a gigantic shark without a dorsal fin, but with a gaping open mouth ready to swallow anything in its path, entered and left the harbour and shortly after a towering top heavy Brittany Ferry named 'Contention' carried out the same routine.


With the aim of having a restful night I took up the anchor so that I could motor the boat to Bood Alley Lake, a passage between the mudflats south of Brownsea Island, but the engine failed only after a few minutes, possibly due to fuel starvation. I made sail and cut across the shallow water east of Furzey Island with only three feet under the keel until the boat was as close I could take her to the beach where I anchored in five feet. There I removed the cover of the outboard to discover why the fuel supply failed, but I took shy of dissembling the carburetter in case I could not reassemble it or perhaps I may have made things worse. Having an unreliable engine is not bit of use. My Honda had become a temperamental machine willing only to work when it decided.

While eating my evening meal I observed two fishermen walking the mud bank searching for cockles. Later they came close with their open boat PE113 named 'Ivy' and I asked them about their work. They confirmed they were looking for cockles and if they could find them, mullet too.

People may wonder what you do alone on a boat all day long, but I can assure you life is never dull. There is always something entertaining going on and there are jobs that need attention, besides time for reading, listening to the radio and enjoying welcome relaxation.

Tuesday 22nd April

I woke to find a very pleasant morning with the sun shining and a gentle breeze from the north. At 0900 I started the engine and set off for Poole Harbour entrance where the chain ferry was crossing to Sandbanks on the eastern side. There were no cross channel ferries entering or leaving and I had it all to myself. Despite my rude remarks about the engine, for a change it was running perfectly, and it enabled me to plug the flooding tide to Handfast Point and beyond. The wind filled in from the south which meant I could motor/sail past Anvil Point way beyond the famous race which was a non-starter because 'Faith' arrived there just as the tide was turning to the west. It was necessary to hold a course of 230 to avoid the Lulworth Firing Range until beyond the two danger zone buoys east of the Race. I could hear the guns with their booming periodic thuds and there was no way I wanted to get caught out.

When we reached 30 degrees 8 minutes north I set a course to run westwards, but the wind slightly headed us which meant we clipped the edge of the Range, but I noticed several vessels inshore of me, one of which turned out to be 'Patsy Rye' with whom I have been sailing in company. She's a beautiful wooden classic Hillyard 4 tonner.

I smothered myself with suncream to protect my face and hands from the strong sunshine. Haze caused me to lose sight of land. The Lowrance GPS with its charts was extremely helpful for checking our progress. With the tide bowling us along we were doing a good 5 knots. Early in the afternoon the tide set southwards which meant I had to offset to starboard to arrive in a safe position just north of a direct course to Weymouth. One can easily be dragged south around Portland Bill into the frightening race that even big ships avoid.

We made steady progress and arrived at Weymouth where we tied up to a pontoon on the south side of the Harbour opposite the Harbour Office. A group of children showed an interest in 'Faith' and asked several sensible questions about her. As I ate my fish and chips bought only a hundred yards away, two gulls waited patiently within touching distance. I rewarded them with left overs and others tried to join them, but they were driven away.

What to do tomorrow remains to be seen. I could stay in Weymouth or try for Bridport, even Exmouth if conditions are right. Most importantly I have to check the tide for the best time to round the Bill which is a tricky bit of navigation. You have to get it right or you could get into big trouble in the Race. There's a choice – either inside it or outside. I prefer the inner passage because it saves a good many miles and time.

Wednesday 23rd April

With the prospect of strong westerlies I decided to stay put in Weymouth where it is very comfortable, although noisy because of the fishing and tripper boats. I made it a 'get everything clean day' including myself, the laundry and the boat. The town itself is fascinating with such a variety of architecture, the Royal Dorset Yacht Club being an example of ornate design featuring pseudo Gothic arched windows.

I had a chat with a helper on 'Spirit of Weymouth', a 60 Class yacht entering the Artemis Transat. Apparently there had been vandalism on the boat that discouraged the owner, whose surname is White, but his forename is lost from my memory.

Nigel Davidson moored his boat, 'Patsy Rye' on the same pontoon as 'Faith'. We both agreed it was not a day for making west. My intention is to relax and prepare for the next stage of my westward quest which could involve night sailing.

There may be several days before the next posting, as I may reach the River Exe where finding a Hotspot may not be possible, but there may be one at Exmouth.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

The Cruise - Part 9

Thursday 17th April

The inshore forecast for Wight was extremely poor – east or north east 5-7. occasionally 8 – the right direction, but far too strong. I decided to keep off the boat as much as possible to avoid the severe movement at the Lymington Town Sailing Club pontoon. After breakfast I made use of the excellent facilities at the Club. The lounge overlooks the harbour and by the panoramic window there's an extremely powerful pair of binoculars that had been used by the Vice Commodore to observe my moves when I arrived yesterday. I enjoyed a coffee in the lounge before returning the boat.

A few yards away on the windward side of the pontoon there's a mini-transat boat named 'Rattle and Rum' owned by Keith Willis and sponsored by the Club. I noticed her fenders were not protecting her; therefore I readjusted them to prevent damage to her topside.

I spent quite a bit of time in the town and visited the Parish Church of St Thomas which has a beautiful carved architrave and attractive stained glass windows. While there a young couple had a look around and we had a good discussion about the Christian doctrine of the resurrection.

As good as her word, my cousin met me at the car park to take me to her house at Milton on Sea where I met her husband prior to celebrating their wedding anniversary at the Crown pub which has an excellent chef who did us proud by presenting us with wonderful food.

Friday 18th April

Again, the early morning forecast was awful, but Brian Pearson paid a visit to 'Faith'. He's a very keen sailor of scows. We enjoyed a chat and a coffee while light rain pattered on the decks. He offered to take my engine to Sal Marine, the local Honda dealer. Their mechanic maintained the reason for a reluctance to start was due to 'foul' or 'gone off' fuel that I bought at Brighton Marina. He swapped the spark plug and replenished the tank and subsequently delivered the engine to the boat, and later he returned with a new plug to replace an incorrect one sold to me when I paid the bill.

Brian suggested I might like to join him for a curry evening at Keyhaven Club, of which he is a member, and as promised he took me there; on the way he showed me vantage points from where I could see features such as Hurst Castle, the Lighthouse, the Needles, Milford Bay and Keyhaven Harbour. Near the yacht club we looked at a very fine Falmouth Pilot type yacht drawn up on the hard in preparation for modifications to her cabin.

While at the Club we chatted about small boats, and in particular the topic of scows of which Brian is an expert. He is a fanatical sailing boat enthusiast with a penchant for the Hugh Norton type 50/50 sailing/paddling canoe. Needless to say we had a very enjoyable evening.

Saturday 19th April

Because of persistent high pressure over Scotland a succession of lows remain over southern England which bring strong winds from the east or north east, and today unwanted rain. It is also very cold and I am having difficulty in keeping warm, especially my feet, because I suffer with Reynaud's Syndrome which is an inherited circulatory problem. How lovely it will be when the weather warms up.

This evening I met Keith Willis and took photos of his mini-transat boat which he plans to sail to Plymouth to enter the qualifying passage to the Fastnet Rock and back.

The weather is still pretty awful, but I live in hope that I may be able to escape Lymington tomorrow.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

The Cruise - Part 8

Cruise – Part 8

Sun 13th April

The forecast was for SW veering NW 4/5, increasing 6 later. I thought I would have time to reach Shoreham before the flood tide and in fact this is how it worked out. I only needed one tack to get sufficient sea room to make the entrance of Shoreham Harbour. At my arrival at the entrance it was 1020 and the Shoreham Sailing Club dinghies were racing. 'Faith' ran before the wind along the Western Pier and turned to port for the Club slipway and there I beached her to await the rising tide. I reconnoitered the bank further into the Western Harbour to find a spot for beaching the boat to have a good night's sleep.

When the boat floated I started the engine and leisurely surveyed the scene as far as the wooden pedestrian bridge above the Sussex Yacht Club and there I saw 'Speedwell' the ketch I was skipper of for 8 months. She was in her usual position on the Club slipway, but she had been painted a pale yellow. When I was in charge of her she was in the traditional black of an old Whitstable smack. This dockland area is industrial with storage tanks, metal dumps and sand piles. Fishing boats were tied up to the north key. On the south side the docks have been transformed by the creation of multiple apartments. The crew of 'Freedom', a fishing boat, gave me a hearty wave.

As I was waiting for the tide to reach its peak I was entertained by children playing on the beach and two jetski boats being retrieved by a 4 wheel drive vehicle which I thought could get stuck in the soft sand, but it coped well.

An hour after the ebb set I beached the boat at the Harbour Club where Tony from the Club introduced himself and invited me to use the facilities. He introduced me to his wife Hannah and their children. I tried to access the Internet through the Club's Hotspot, but was unsuccessful.

The forecast for tomorrow is for force 4 or 5 NW increasing to 6 at times, with showers and good visibility.

Monday 14th April

At 0630 the harbour control light was flashing red which meant a cargo vessel was comoing, and sure enough I saw the bridge deck of the ship above the harbour wall. Three quarters of an hour later 'Faith' was heading for the sea. The forecast was for stronger winds than I would have wanted, reaching force 6 at times from the north west – OK for the first stretch to Selsey Bill, but not so good for Chichester Harbour.

By 0845 we were sailing nicely off Worthing Pier when I was astonished to see a man standing on a surfboard and paddling it with a long shafted paddle. I thought he needed assistance so I changed course and back-tracked until within shouting distance of the paddler, but he totally ignored me. Thereupon I resumed the course towards the Mixon, a beacon south of Selsey Bill. An hour later we passed close to a red Trinity House vessel with a crane and showing three black diamond shapes at the masthead, indicating they were conducting special operations and had right of way.
Shortly after eleven the wind failed, so I started the engine, but an hour and a half later it came in from dead ahead. The tide turned against us and there was a fierce squall with heavy rain, which caused me to shorten sail. Having succeeded in rounding the Mixon the going got harder as the tide turned against the north west wind at about force 5. Water frequently crashed over the boat, but I remained dry inside the cabin. Nearer to Chichester Harbour the wind moderated and by the time we were at East Head it had almost petered out. We motored into Snowhill Creek just as it became dark and we anchored in 5 feet of water where we would dry out for the night. There was a beautiful crescent moon, but the air was very cold.

Tuesday 15th April

The early morning scene was incredibly beautiful, a bit like those ancient Chinese paintings where there are layers of fading mist and it was so peaceful as the skylark praised the dawn. A heron stood patiently at the water's edge. My breath condensed while I cooked a full English breakfast. Soon the boat was afloat, raised by the incoming tide and I wondered at the lovely clean water flowing over the sand and the shoals of tiny silver fish.

I was highly amused at a woman walking the beach with her two dogs, one of whom was called Leo. She commanded him to fetch a stone she threw into the water, but the dog just looked up at her as if to say the exercise would be pointless as he would not be able to find it. Again and again the woman repeated her command with an imperious voice, but the dog just sat on its haunches, whereupon she became very angry and frustrated.

Later that morning I anchored 'Faith' near the head of Snowhill Creek and within an hour or so there were several other yachts to keep her company. Not a great deal happened during the day which I reserved as a rest day. The 'Walcon Wizard', a huge floating pile driver with a tall crane structure amidships made her way to sea and returned in the evening. Incredibly, just as I was about to cook the evening meal and listen to the forecast, a chap anchored his Hunter Pilot 27, ' Caddle of Ayre', right over the spot where my anchor was dug in! Eventually he moved his boat before I took 'Faith' into Snowhill Creek for the night.

Wednesday 16th April

The forecast was for strong easterlies leading to gale force, but there was ample time for sailing to Lymington with the tide pushing us along, so I set off from Snowhill Creek at 0710 when the rising tide floated 'Faith' off the mud. Getting out of Chichester Harbour against the incoming flood tide was only possible because of the engine. Once clear of the bar I set a course for Horse Sand Fort which marks the southern end of a barrier set up during the war to keep submarines from entering the Solent.

Speed was mostly above 5 knots with wind and tide pushing us along. From Ryde and Wooton there were ferries linking with Southsea, including the yellow 'Fast Cat' catamaran. The water was a characteristic deep green, only seen on these waters. Approaching Cowes I could see Norris Castle high up in the trees with its twin towers looking like a Disney set. Quite a few swish yachts were enjoying the fresh breeze. I had to keep a keen eye on the sail to prevent involuntary broaching. To the north the huge chimney and buildings of Fawley Power Station could clearly be seen, and a couple of miles to the west a forest of masts marked the Beaulie moorings.

It was exciting sailing all the way to the entrance to Lymington River and even more exciting going in as one ferry was leaving and another entering, and just when I needed the engine it failed to start. By reducing sail I was able to make a controlled course close to Lymington Marina and just beyond to the pontoon of The Lymington Town Sailing Club, whose members made me very welcome, even helping me to more on the leeward side of their pontoon in anticipation of the forecast easterly gale. The time of arrival was 1300 which must be a record for the boat, taking only 5 hours and 40 minutes. When I get back to the boat I must work out the average speed.

Tomorrow I'll probably spend the day exploring Lymington and Milford on Sea, as a cousin has invited me to a celebratory meal for her wedding anniversary.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

The Cruise - Part 7

Cruise -Part 7

Sat 12th April

There's nearly always loads happening on the water, especially at a busy marina like Brighton, and today was no exception. The first thing that my attention was drawn to was activity on the nearby Cadet patrol vessel, a dark grey naval style large motor cruiser named 'Puncher', P291.

Several crew members wearing their smart dark blue uniforms arrived just before 0800 and the friendly officer in charge came over for a chat. He told me he was expecting the lady Mayor of Eastbourne and her officials for a trip up Channel to Sovereign Yacht Harbour where there would be a special function - an event to do with a commemoration in connection with Eastbourne. He had advised the Mayor to cancel her trip as it would be pretty lively so say the least; nevertheless she persisted and boarded with her entourage at 0940. The ship's engines were started, and again I was visited, but this time by one of the junior officers who asked if I would release the mooring lines when the boat was leaving her pontoon. The reason for requiring my assistance was that it would be impossible for a crew member to get back on board the ship after the lines had been released because the strong wind would have pushed the vessel away from the pontoon. All went well without the lines snarling the propellers as 'Puncher' reversed.

The next event was the appearance of a sleek racing sailboat named 'Mr Green' which was owned by Sailnet.UK. She was fully crewed by students and her instructor; they had a deeply reefed the mainsail and the boat was powered by an outboard motor. Two identical racing machines followed: 'Mr Blue' and 'Mr Pink'. They disappeared from sight around the inner breakwater while spray periodically was projected over it. A bright yellow RIB laden with large orange marker buoys accompanied the racing boats - presumably the buoys were to be used for laying out a course.

I did the laundry while having lunch and that facility was good value for money at only £1 for the washing machine and £2 for the dryer. I met a lady in the laundry who was at first a little grumpy because she was complaining about 'communal living' and on clarifying what she meant I understood she considered the terminology described her 'practical union of marriage', but I noted she asked her husband by mobile phone to assist her, which he promptly did. The lady said the drawback of living on a boat in the marina was having to share facilities and it was not the same as having a home where one has privacy.

During the early afternoon there was no let-up of the almost gale force wind, and I was grateful for an offer from a gentleman who owned a Princess 43 motor yacht named, 'Myakka Moon'. His boat was tucked behind a north/south facing pontoon which brought about a calm spot just short of her stern. He suggested I should motor 'Faith' around to that position where he would take my lines so that I would have a more peaceful night than the previous one. In truth, there was no peace last night because of the incessant, strong and bitterly cold wind which caused the sea to be agitated.

Having moved the boat I was able to charge the VHF radio's battery, along with that of my mobile phone. The ship's battery did not need charging because of the effective solar panel.

Yesterday I forgot to give an account of my meeting with Mr Alan Ried aboard 'Orca', a 40 year old Tony Smith trimaran. He and his friend had been sailing an identical vessel off the Needles in very rough weather on 5th November when she was pitch-polled, after which they fought their way to the surface and climbed aboard the upturned hull. As Providence would have it, a German yacht passed within hailing distance and her vigilant crew hearing their whistles responded to see two sailors in their survival gear standing on the upturned hull. The efficient Germans alerted the Coastguard who mobilized their helicopter for the rescue mission which was accomplished before nightfall at five in the afternoon. They were extremely lucky, because prior to the arrival of the Germans no one knew of their plight and the flares they had sent off were not seen; indeed, most probably their distress pyrotechnics would not have been considered as such because it was Guy Fawkes night and fireworks were going off all the time.

This is my fourth night at Brighton Marina awaiting favourable conditions for continuing westwards. As I said yesterday, maybe the wind will moderate so that I can progress westwards, possibly to Ryde on the Isle of Wight or Chichester Harbour in the Solent.

Friday, April 11, 2008

The Cruise - Part 6

The Cruise – Part 6

Fri 11th April

This was another day spent in port because of the strong wind which reached force 7. I took the opportunity to visit the Pavilion, a building of sumptuous elegance designed for entertaining the guests of the Prince Regent, George the 4th. Much of the interior was based on Chinese design with opulent sculpted features such as a dragon high in the ceiling supporting an exquisite chandelier in its mouth. The extravagance and indulgence in the Prince Regent's whims is flabbergasting; I could never have imagined such a passion for the purpose of entertaining and showing off. It was a place where he loved to be surrounded with beautiful women and men of prominent positions. Queen Victoria inherited the property, but she found it unsuitable for her purposes and sold it to the Council of Brighton.

I had lunch in the open area adjacent to the Brighton Museum and there I met a lady who suffered from anxiety and who was looked after by a carer. She told me she was disappointed because she was not allowed to have a holiday with two friends who lived in the New Forest and she wanted me to explain what a 'risk assessment' was because she had failed hers for the holiday, but didn't fully understand what it was all about. As a part of her therapy she was going swimming at the local pool.

The Museum was well worth a visit in view of the excellent exhibits, particularly the huge collection of pottery representing the history of England in many subjects subjects such as entertainment, medicine, sports, et.

Back at the boat the biting cold wind roared across the Marina bringing spray from the breaking waves as they crashed into the jetties and my little boat danced beside the pontoon.

Nigel Davidson kindly charged my computer while I prepared the evening meal and visited the post box at Asda.

Well, tomorrow may be better for sailing and if it is I'll be heading west towards the Isle of Wight or Chichester Harbour.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

The Cruise - Part 5

The Cruise – Part 5

Thursday, 10th April 08

Today was a stay-in-port day. I needed to clean the inside of the boat and rearrange the stowage of food, do some shopping and top up the fuel. The delivery of the fuel tank cap went ahead as planned and I thank Aquatec Marine Engineering of Commerce Way, Lancing, BN15 8TA for their efficiency in delivering the item to the boat as promised. Altogether the time spent in port was very satisfactory while the sun shone and for the first time since starting the cruise the temperature was decidedly warm. I also took the opportunity to ease the edge of a floorboard that had swollen and was sticking.

I lost count of the number of visitors who purposely came to look at 'Faith' with the usual questions and expressions of disbelief or adulation according to their mind set. Before leaving home I should have made information sheets to be handed to the more genuinely interested visitors as Al Law does when he cruises his 'Little Jim'.

The forecast for tomorrow is not encouraging with winds from the south west between force 5 and 6 and gusting with showers or sleet. I'll consider the morning forecast and make a decision whether to attempt sailing to Shoreham or further. Another day in Brighton might be well, as I could explore the town with its many secondhand and antique shops. There's also the pavilion and pier to visit.

Wednesday, April 09, 2008

The Cruise - Part 4

Cruise – Part 4

Wed 9th April

There was no wind as 'Faith' left the western entrance to Dover Harbour at 0630; there was a clear sky and the tide was against us. None of this would have been possible with the Honda 2.3 which I've named Sherpa because of its hard work without complaint. To starboard the famous white cliffs looked gleaming white as the sun's rays were reflected towards me. Apart from the usual ferries there were no other boats in sight. Nigel said he would be leaving at 0800 and I knew for sure his 'Nancy Rye' would arrive at Sovereign Yacht Harbour before 'Faith'.

The visibility was so good that I could see the huge nuclear power station at Dungeness 15 miles away on a heading 230. Our speed at 0840 was 5 knots and the white buildings of Folkstone were to starboard about 2 miles.

By 1030 we were rounding the tip of Dungeness. There were many fisherman by the water's edge at the base of a steeply sloping pebbly beach and just as it would be there was a squall and a heavy downpour which made the boat heel more than she had done for a while. A mile further on I was intercepted by the gun range launch who gave instructions that I should stick to a course of 240 to be clear of the firing. The launch took up station to the point where I was to sail and when I reached it a member of the crew requested permission to take photos of my boat.

Late afternoon the sun was dead ahead and as I could not find my sunglasses I had difficulty in seeing where I should be going. As I suspected 'Nancy Rye' overtook 'Faith' about 7 miles before Sovereign Yacht Harbour. It was of no advantage because he stayed in the lock until until I arrived. That was a first for me, as I had never experienced being in a lock before. The yacht harbour is one of those showpieces for the very rich and the cost of staying there for one day is nearly £20.00, irrespective that my yacht is only 4.2 metres!

I didn't fancy exploring Eastbourne, the local town for the Marina, and therefore I determined to set off on Thursday for Brighton Marina.

Thu 10th April

After buying petrol for the next leg I set sail at 0800. Nigel wanted to stay at Eastbourne for a least a day and therefore we may not see each other again on this cruise, although his intention is similar to mine, i.e., sail west.

Rounding Beachy Head against the spring tide brought excitement as my boat raced the overflows close to the impressive white cliffs; at that crucial spot we could only manage just over a knot while a coastguard helicopter hover overhead. I think it was doing its normal morning routine and was not there to make sure I would be OK. I was so close to the red and white lighthouse that I could take some fabulous phots.

Just off Newhaven I was refilling the tank and lost the tank cap and had to improvise with a piece of plastic and a bit of cord. I could not allow sea water spray get into the petrol, neither did I want the petrol spilled by the motion of the boat.

Off Brighton there was an agitated sea caused by the tide against the west wind and the contrast inside the Marina was welcome. The fees for a day there were similar to the previous marina and therefore the sooner I can reach the Solent where I can tuck in on a beach the better, and to make matters worse, the visitors' pontoon has a fault with the electric supply because it was damaged during 'the big storm'.

The forecast for tomorrow does not look too inviting, but whatever happens I have to stay in the marina until the new petrol tank cap arrives.

Monday, April 07, 2008

The Cruise - Part 3

Cruise Part 3

Sun 6th April – continued

After MacDonald's I went for a walk along the Marine Parade where there was an excellent view of the sea which looked uninviting, particularly where the dredged channel led to the Harbour entrance causing the north going ebb to bring about nasty looking breakers – just the thing to avoid in a small vessel such as 'Faith'. Sleet was falling from heavily ladened black clouds and under those circumstances I was amazed to see two scantily clad young girls sat cross legged on the wet pavement behind the sea wall; they were engaged in a loud conversation, none of which to me was intelligible. Further along the road there were children dodging the waves as they broke over the barricade.

On arriving at the North Breakwater I discovered several fishermen and a women hopefully waiting for bites; one fisherman had caught a dogfish and he informed me it was a member of the shark family. I must admit it looked a bit like a miniature shark, except the upper fin was not at all prominent. At the extreme end of the breakwater there were several excited Japanese youngsters who repeatedly took photos and videos of themselves with their mobile phone cameras. They giggled loudly when viewing the results.

As I donned my 'oilskins' to protect myself from drizzle mixed with sleet, the ferry the 'Euro Enterprise' entered the Outer Harbour. The whole operation was skilfully carried out when she reversed into her docking station. Berthed at the North Breakwater there was a bulk sand carrier named 'Black Deep'. At first I thought she was a dredger, but as far as I could ascertain she did not have a dredge.

The Maritime Museum has a few vessels on display in the Inner Lock Basin; one of them is 'Emanuel' built my Capt Anderson back in 1926; she is a counter stern gaff ketch in restored condition rigged with galvanized steel standing rigging. Her varnished box cabin complete with brass ports and teak laid decks make her a very attractive classic vessel.

Back at my faithful 'Faith' by mid afternoon I made a welcome cup of tea and I was thankful I had not arrived later because the sleet became persistent.

Mon 7th April

As soon as the 'Europa Endeavour' had entered Ramsgate outer harbour I sought permission from Port Control to leave. The time was 0700 and 'Patsy Rye' followed but a short distance. I made full sail in the shelter of the harbour and cut the motor. I laid a course to South Brake buoy, a distance of 4 miles with the wind on the nose, but the flood tide more or less eliminated any leeway whilst adding to our speed giving on average 4 to 5 knots. 'Nancy Rye' motored close inshore to avoid the banks, but I took advantage of the full current. The sailing was brisk and as the sun shone between dark clouds 'Faith' dug her lee chine in deep; spray spattered my spectacles. Well ahead I noticed South Foreland was covered with snow and the wind was bitingly cold; I was grateful I was wearing my thermals as the occasional snow flurry speckled the deck.

A sinister stealth military vessel held station to seaward and a rib was launched from her before racing to a beach north of Deal. After quarter of an hour the speeding boat returned to her mother ship. I can only suppose the crew were practising for when they may be on active duty.

At Deal Bank buoy the courses of 'Nancy Rye' and 'Faith' converged so that we were able to speak. The ancient Walmer Castle of Deal clearly stood out as it was highlighted by the eastern sun; abeam there was another castle and a small lattice pier. No doubt vigilant observers at Dover Patrol, high above and close to the edge of the perpendicular chalk cliffs monitored our progress. Here the current was edging 'Faith' east of her intended course close inshore; therefore I started the motor and took in sail. Shortly afterwards the engine ran out of fuel, but it was not too difficult to refill the tank.

Entering the eastern entrance of Dover Harbour was textbook; fortunately there was no ferry activity and getting into the tidal part of the Marina was routine. There the facilities are good, except for the scorching hot showers.

Maybe tomorrow the weather will be suitable for proceeding westwards.

Sunday, April 06, 2008

Cruise Part 2

Cruise Part 2

Sat 5th April

The early morning shipping forecast was horrible – gales all over the place. Needless to say, I decided to remain in port at Ramsgate and make it a shopping day after a late rise.

I usually forget a few items when setting out on a cruise, even though I draw up a list of thing s needed. This time I left my gloves, marmalade and scrubbing brush at home, but I was able to buy replacements at the bustling port. The place was full of activity with a street market and I was amazed at the number of visitors and possibly immigrants, most of them Poles.

The highlight was eating out at MacDonald's where I was successful in using their free Hotspot to upload the previous Blog.

Mostly it was a bright sunny day with little indication of the strong northerly wind forecast. Had I known the meteorologists would get it wrong I would have left for Dover shortly after daybreak. As it transpired the day was reasonably enjoyable and only later did it cloud over to bring a few seasonable April showers, but tomorrow the forecasters predict a layer of snow over Kent to remain on the ground until evening. Accordingly I dug out my thermal underwear to insulate my body from the cold. I also bought a Woolworth's hot water bottle to ensure my toes will be warm. Another item that took my attention was a waterproof flashlight for only £4.99, including the battery. While at the store I also bought some soft pencils for chart work and for the English Channel Tidal Atlas, the pages of which I mark up for every hour to know in advance what the currents will be doing. When I have a choice the whole strategy for course planning depends on the Tidal Atlas, because it is not at all sensible to sail counter to the flood or ebb currents.

Sun 6th April

With an equally bad forecast as yesterday morning, this time including sleet and snow, it became obvious I would be staying at the Ramsgate pontoon G9 until tomorrow am at the earliest; the same applied to Nigel aboard his Hilyard 4 tonner, 'Nancy Rye'. Another yacht bound for Tichmarsh Marina also abandoned an attempt to beat into the strong north west wind. Two local racing boats with well togged crew members went out to race – rather them than me.

The Cruise

The Cruise

Wed 2nd April 2008

After launching 'Faith' at the Hullbridge Ferry Road slipway and returning the trailer to my home I set off down the River Crouch under power. Just before Fambridge I made sail. By 1250 Essex Marina at Wallasy Island was abeam to starboard. The sun shone and there was a gentle wind from the west which gave me a fast passage to the River Roach where I anchored close to the north bank to be out of the wind. A dominant male goose left the flock which alighted on the water nearby and did his best to chase me away; eventually it gave up and joined the others as they took to the wing. After the evening meal I noticed a large grey seal was taking an interest in the boat. His curiosity lasted for a long ten minutes and after realizing 'Faith' was not a threat to his territory or a potential mate he submerged never to be seen again.

Thur 3rd April

By 0715 the Honda 3.2 outboard was purring away. The bright morning sun blinded me as it reflected off the mirror-like water. About an hour and a half after leaving the Roach I topped up the engine with petrol. This was much easier than I thought it would be. Over time I discovered that a full tank of one litre lasted for two hours at an average speed of 3 knots. Apart from an inconsiderate fishing launch that passed only a few yards abeam I was completely alone until after mid-day when a rather stunning white ketch with tanned sails came near on her way towards Burnham.

The wind sprang up briefly, but after hoisting sail I had it down within ten minutes. Crossing the Thames from the southern side of Maplin Sands was a matter of ferry gliding to combat the ebb. Several ships were at anchor not far from Shoebury. Before arriving at the Columbine Spit Buoy at the entrance to the River Swale we sailed to the Red Sand Tower and to the west of a large wind farm. The size of the wind generators is quite staggering and there are at least 30 of them in regimented rows. They towered over several passing ships from the upper reaches of the Thames as they proceeded seaward with the ebb.

There was still no wind as we entered the Swale, but by that time the flood tide helped us along to an anchorage close to the southern side of the Isle of Sheppey, north of Faversham, where the anchor was set in 5 feet. On the way I was pleased to see a number of seals on the muddy west bank.

The evening was overcast and a light easterly wind brought a chill dampness. I very quickly snuggled into my sleeping bag in an effort to keep my toes warm.

Fri 4th April

A good SW 4 to 5, occasionally 6 was forecast, but at the time of leaving the anchorage at 0640 there was a dead calm. During the first few hours the scene was of greys and silvers, but thereafter the sun shone shafts of gold to illuminate the sea. On the whole passage I only saw two small sport fishing boats and the Ramsgate pilot launch.

While rounding the white cliffs of North Foreland the wind sprang up from ahead and although the tide turned in our favour I left the engine running, as it was only a matter of a couple of miles before Ramsgate where we arrived at 1345 and berthed at West Marina, G9 pontoon.

After a welcome shave and shower I met Nigel Davidson who owns a Hilyard 4 tonner, one of only two built of teak. He intends working to the west in 'Patsy Rye', but before doing so he wants to Explore Ramsgate.

Saturday, April 05, 2008

The Cruise

The Cruise

Wed 2nd April 2008

After launching 'Faith' at the Hullbridge Ferry Road slipway and returning the trailer to my home I set off down the River Crouch under power. Just before Fambridge I made sail. By 1250 Essex Marina at Wallasy Island was abeam to starboard. The sun shone and there was a gentle wind from the west which gave me a fast passage to the River Roach where I anchored close to the north bank to be out of the wind. A dominant male goose left the flock which alighted on the water nearby and did his best to chase me away; eventually it gave up and joined the others as they took to the wing. After the evening meal I noticed a large grey seal was taking an interest in the boat. His curiosity lasted for a long ten minutes and after realizing 'Faith' was not a threat to his territory or a potential mate he submerged never to be seen again.

Thur 3rd April

By 0715 the Honda 3.2 outboard was purring away. The bright morning sun blinded me as it reflected off the mirror-like water. About an hour and a half after leaving the Roach I topped up the engine with petrol. This was much easier than I thought it would be. Over time I discovered that a full tank of one litre lasted for two hours at an average speed of 3 knots. Apart from an inconsiderate fishing launch that passed only a few yards abeam I was completely alone until after mid-day when a rather stunning white ketch with tanned sails came near on her way towards Burnham.

The wind sprang up briefly, but after hoisting sail I had it down within ten minutes. Crossing the Thames from the southern side of Maplin Sands was a matter of ferry gliding to combat the ebb. Several ships were at anchor not far from Shoebury. Before arriving at the Columbine Spit Buoy at the entrance to the River Swale we sailed to the Red Sand Tower and to the west of a large wind farm. The size of the wind generators is quite staggering and there are at least 30 of them in regimented rows. They towered over several passing ships from the upper reaches of the Thames as they proceeded seaward with the ebb.

There was still no wind as we entered the Swale, but by that time the flood tide helped us along to an anchorage close to the southern side of the Isle of Sheppey, north of Faversham, where the anchor was set in 5 feet. On the way I was pleased to see a number of seals on the muddy west bank.

The evening was overcast and a light easterly wind brought a chill dampness. I very quickly snuggled into my sleeping bag in an effort to keep my toes warm.

Fri 4th April

A good SW 4 to 5, occasionally 6 was forecast, but at the time of leaving the anchorage at 0640 there was a dead calm. During the first few hours the scene was of greys and silvers, but thereafter the sun shone shafts of gold to illuminate the sea. On the whole passage I only saw two small sport fishing boats and the Ramsgate pilot launch.

While rounding the white cliffs of North Foreland the wind sprang up from ahead and although the tide turned in our favour I left the engine running, as it was only a matter of a couple of miles before Ramsgate where we arrived at 1345 and berthed at West Marina, G9 pontoon.

After a welcome shave and shower I met Nigel Davidson who owns a Hilyard 4 tonner, one of only two built of teak. He intends working to the west in 'Patsy Rye', but before doing so he wants to Explore Ramsgate.